Some foods are classic, earning their status due to being loved across states and demographics. Apple and cherry pie come to mind, as does grilled cheese, tacos, and spaghetti. If you like hot dogs, you’re bound to have enjoyed a coney dog too. I enjoyed a classic coney recently, appreciating its simplicity and satisfying flavors. While its reputation as a favorite American food is not in dispute, its origins actually are. Back to that topic in a minute.
To make a coney dog, put a hot dog in a bun, top it with chili sauce, then add onions and mustard. No ketchup is used, and beans are not included in the sauce. A chili dog has a thicker meat sauce and cheese, often with jalapenos but without mustard, distinguishing it from a coney dog. The savory sauce of the coney is key, and it tends to be on the thin side yet full of flavor from seasonings including garlic and onion powder, chili powder, and cumin. Contrasting textures from the soft bun, firm hot dog, and crunchy onion add to the appeal, while for me, mustard’s vinegary kick is essential. I also offer shredded cheese when I make coney dogs at home, as this topping is a favorite of my son. My boyfriend adds ketchup, and considering his sweet tooth and ketchup’s sweetness, this is no surprise.
While researching the coney dog’s origins I discovered varying claims as to its invention. First, set aside thoughts of New York’s Coney Island amusement park as the food’s birthplace, though the state can claim the hot dog in a bun without much controversy. Now turn your thoughts to the Midwest. My home state of Michigan is often cited as birthplace to the coney dog (sorry Indiana), particularly the Detroit restaurants that happened to include Coney Island in their name. One theory holds that Greek and Macedonian immigrants passing through New York’s Ellis Island heard about or visited the state’s Coney Island park and used the name for the topped hot dogs they turned into an American classic beginning in the early 1900s.
Throughout its history, Detroit has been home to restaurants including Jackson Coney Island, Virginia Coney Island, Lafayette Coney Island, and the American Coney Island. The last two were established by Greek immigrant brothers, Bill and Gus Keros, in 1915 after an argument led to them splitting an original restaurant into two separate establishments. These restaurants still exist. As for the sauce that distinguishes a coney dog, it likely derives from saltsa kima, a spiced tomato-based meat sauce that tops Greek spaghetti. Within Michigan, coney dog lovers often fall into two camps—those who prefer their dogs Detroit-style (saucy) or Flint-style, with a dry and thick meat sauce.
I originally thought a German deserved credit for the coney dog, and indeed it was 19th century German immigrants who brought frankfurters to Brooklyn, New York, selling the sausages in buns at Coney Island amusement park. As for improvising a traditional sauce for American tastes, served on the popular hot dog along with mustard and onions, well, Greeks get the credit for the messy, yummy treat we call the coney dog.
